August Meeting | Summer Show and Social at Fairlands Community Centre | Tuesday 11th August, 8pm
Please see the August Potting Shed for the Crossgram and Wordsearch puzzles, and the list of Events and Activities in the area
Inspiration for our gardens can come in many forms and from many different places. At our July meeting, Mark Saunders was providing us the ‘Garden Inspiration’ we needed to be able to make some changes to our own gardens come the autumn or spring when conditions should be more favourable for splitting, transplanting, and making additions to the garden. Mark had some beautiful photographs of different gardens that showed a full range of spectacular ways to add impact. However, when we see something we like, the key is not to ask, “What plant is that?” and instead ask, “What is it about this scene that appeals to me?” Is it the rhythm, the colour, the texture, the contrast, the repetition, or the feeling it creates?
Of course, it is also possible, and indeed desirable, to look beyond other gardens. Garden designers often borrow ideas from art, architecture, nature and even everyday objects, and these can be surprisingly rich sources of inspiration:
If additional inspiration is required, the Club website contains some wonderful photographs from our members on the July Photographs page.
With another exceptional year of hot and dry weather, one thing we all need to do is to carefully reexamine what plants we have in our gardens and to see if we can adapt planting schemes to favour more drought tolerant plants in the future. When we look around our own gardens, we can see the contrast between plants that are well adapted for dry weather and those that are not. These more tolerant plants typically have one or more characteristics that make them more resilient.
However, these useful adaptations do not imply that a plant likes poor conditions or neglect. Drought tolerance in summer may also mean an intolerance of wet winters, so these plants often require excellent drainage to make it through a soggy British winter. For all plants in the garden, well-draining soil rich in organic matter with infrequent, thorough watering and a deep surface mulch will give the best chance of success and many years of low-maintenance enjoyment.
Our August meeting on Tuesday 11th August will be our Summer Show and Social. It’s been a scorching July and a reprieve of some rain may not come in time for many plants in the garden, but please have a look at the schedule and what’s in your garden and see what you can enter. Remember, everyone is in a similar position, and you may be pleasantly surprised to see how your entries compare to others.
If you are entering any classes, doors will be open from 7 pm for the setup and staging of exhibits. This always takes longer than you think, so give yourself plenty of time. Remember, all staging must be complete by 8 pm. Otherwise, the meeting proper and the social-side of the evening will start from 8 pm. Just like regular Club meetings, we will have a raffle with tickets available on the door as you enter (so bring some change), but there will not be a Plant Stall or a specific Exhibit of the Month.
You will need to make a note of all the classes you are entering on the Entry Form – this is included at the end of the Show Schedule, and on the Summer Show page, and will be available at the door of the hall as you enter (so no excuses!!). Please note that the Entry Form only has a very brief description of each class so please look at the Show Schedule for the complete description of each class and any constraints that may apply. One important constraint this year is the removal of the use of floral foam (Oasis) is the flower arranging classes (Classes 12 and 13). Please see the section below for more information and alternatives.
Every class you enter will also require a Show Card that you will need to complete – one per entry. These will be available from the Adjudicators’ table. You can email your Entry Form to info@worplesdongardenclub.co.uk before midnight on the 10th August, and we will prepare your Show Cards for you to save time, or you can collect and complete blank ones on the night. You will also need to collect your Exhibitor Number from the Adjudicators’ table. This number needs to be on every Show Card you complete.
When setting up your exhibits for horticultural classes (Classes 1-11 and 14-23), boards, vases, containers, plates, and water will be provided, but it may help to bring some kitchen paper or equivalent to help pack show vases, a pen, and secateurs or scissors to trim stems.
The judging of exhibits will start from 8 pm and will take about an hour. Once again there will be puzzles and quizzes to entertain you, friends and fellow members to chat to, a few nibbles to sustain you, and the task of judging the photography and handicraft classes to challenge you. The voting slip for Classes 24-29 must be returned by 8.45 pm.
If you are entering the photography classes (Classes 24-26), please remember that photographs must be unmounted and displayed in either portrait or landscape orientation with a minimum size of 6”x4” (15x10cm), and a maximum size of 7”x5” (18x13cm).
We hope to have all the judging complete by about 9 pm so that the doors can be opened for general viewing prior to the awarding of the Show Cups. If you were fortunate enough to win a trophy at last year’s show, please make sure you return it on the night, suitably cleaned, so either you can win it again or it can find a new and deserving home this year.
Here are a few pointers for how to make the best impact when showing flowers and vegetables. However, the most important tip is to just have a go. The Committee has tried hard to make the show as inclusive as possible with lots of classes for different types of flowers and vegetables, as well as flower arranging, photography, and handicraft classes. Have a look and try to find a few things to enter. Remember, there’s always Class 14, the Have a Go class where you can enter any flower, plant, fruit, or vegetable, and Class 29, the Gardening Hiccup class where the humorous or disastrous can come out on top!
The judging is done by an external judge to RHS standards and there are rules as outlined in the show schedule. However, at its heart, this is a fun evening where we all share in the wonder and joy of seeing different exhibits from lots of people’s gardens.
The judge will usually be looking for quality. There are some exceptions to this, such as the Bean Race, Class 20, where the length of three beans is the only criteria, but generally, a flower, flowers, or vegetables of the best quality will stand a good chance of winning against others that are blemished or going over. Consistency is also important for all classes where you need multiple items. The six flower heads (Class 2) or the three root vegetables (Class 18) for example, should all be as consistent in size and form as each other.
A vase of mixed flowers (Class 8) can have as many or as few flowers or stems as you like but should still be as good a quality as possible and should look good overall. It can be useful for this class to pick and arrange the flowers at home and then bind the stems with an elastic band or string, or even easier, a spiral of rubber coated garden wire. Then this can be transported ‘as is’ and placed into the show vases provided for instant effect.
Runner beans should be crisp and straight. Picking fresh can give you crisp, but it rarely gives you straight. It is better to pick your beans over a number of days, comparing each to a desired length. Allow to dry slightly so they become a little bit flaccid, then straighten against a rolling pin and wrap in a damp tea towel and place in the fridge overnight. They will regain their crisp turgor and be of prizewinning straightness. Cucumbers can also be straightened by working them in your hands whilst at room temperature before returning them to the fridge until the Show.
For things that may be reluctant to stand up straight, such as tomatoes and onions, you can either use a sprinkling of sand or rice on the plate to steady each item or sit them on little collars or rings to keep them upright.
There are a few other tips on the Summer Show page, but please read the full schedule. If it asks for 5 tomatoes, give them a count before you walk away from the show bench as it’s all too easy to get carried away setting up and add an extra one without thinking. One cherry tomato had to be hastily eaten just before judging a few years ago to avoid the dreaded NAS (Not According to Schedule)!
The show is for fun, so please bring something along on the 11th August and help us make this a spectacular show for everyone to enjoy.
For many years, green floral foam, or Oasis, has been an essential part of flower arranging. It made creating displays quick and easy by holding stems firmly in place while supplying them with water. However, in recent years it has become increasingly unpopular as awareness has grown of its environmental impact. These traditional floral foams are a single-use plastic made from petroleum-based resins that cannot be recycled or composted, and every time it is cut or used, sheds tiny plastic particles, microplastics, that can find their way into our soil and waterways. Since 2021, the RHS has banned the use of floral foam at all its shows and events. As an RHS Affiliated Society, we too have decided to stop the use of floral foam at our Summer Show.
Fortunately, giving up foam does not mean compromising on creativity. A loosely rolled ball of galvanised chicken wire remains one of the most versatile methods available. Pin holders, or kenzan, offer great control when creating more sculptural or minimalist compositions, while taped grids across wide-mouthed containers, woven twig frameworks, moss-covered wire and decorative pebbles all have their place depending on the style of arrangement.
Using these alternatives may take a little more thought than simply pushing stems into a block of foam, but they often result in healthier flowers, more creative designs and mechanics that can be used again and again.
We enjoyed a wonderful summer barbecue at Gill and Mel’s in early July, and our sincere thanks go to them and to Klara and Danny and Mick and Joy for helping to make everything to go so well, and for their amazing support for the barbecue over the past 25 year. There are some photographs from the afternoon on the Summer Barbecue page of the Website.
At the end of the month, our rearranged Members’ Open-Garden day again proved to be a perfect afternoon of wonderful weather, beautiful gardens, delicious tea and cakes, and the delightful company of many other Club members. Our thanks go to Margaret and Gary Parker, Jean and Kelvin Pickford, and to Tim and Keith for allowing the Club to spend a lovely afternoon in your gardens. Thanks also go to Sue Clutterbuck for ad hoc visits in the morning. Pictures from the afternoon are on the Open Gardens page of the Club website.
You can also see a bulleted list in the August Potting Shed
Another month where we seem to have run out of superlatives for describing the extreme nature of this summer. July has brought many of us zero millimetres of rain. With hosepipe bans and a declaration of drought in Surrey, we can only hope that August brings us and our gardens some relief. Long-range weather models do suggest that a more historically normal weather pattern is increasingly likely for August, but as we have seen so far this summer, promises of imminent rain have just evaporated.
Plants in pots, tubs, and baskets are obviously the most dependent on daily watering. Grouping multiple pots together can greatly reduce the total water required. The challenge of providing enough water to many plants has meant that many annuals and perennials have flowered quickly and died, rather than continuing to give us a show for the duration of the summer. However, later flowering annuals and herbaceous perennials such as Rudbeckia and Dahlias are now starting to deliver. In all cases, continue to dead-head as soon as flowers fade to continue the display as long as possible.
Now is the time to do the summer pruning of Wisteria by cutting back the long stems of this year’s growth to about five or six leaves. This prevents continued leaf formation and growth of the long tendrils and encourages flowering buds to form in the leaf axils. August is also the time to do any pruning of stone fruits (plum, cherry, peach, etc.) as well as formative pruning of apples and pears trained as an espalier, cordon or fan, but wait until the winter to prune them if grown as regular trees.
For most people, sweet peas have completely finished, but cooler temperatures, if we get them, should allow more runner beans and late-sown peas in the vegetable garden to set and start cropping. Continue to water well and remember to pick regularly to encourage continued cropping. Regular picking also applies to courgettes and cucumbers, as both can get very large, very quickly if you’re not paying attention!
Cuttings of half-hardy perennials such as zonal pelargoniums (‘geraniums’), fuchsias, Osteospermum, as well as Salvias, and Argyranthemum (marguerites), can be taken now. Cut 5-15cm long, non-flowering stems and trim to just under a node (where the leaves join the stem) and pot into moist, gritty, well drained compost. Cover with a plastic bag, and place in bright, but not direct sunlight. After a few weeks new shoots and leaves will start to grow indicating that the cutting has rooted and can be carefully dug up and potted-on.
Trim hedges once birds have finished nesting, and trim Lavender once flowering has finished by removing most, or all of this year’s growth. Do not cut back into older wood as this may not regrow. Shoots removed can be used for semi-hardwood cuttings and potted into gritty, well drained compost.
Although most perennials are best moved in the autumn or spring, bearded irises are best done now ensuring that the fleshy rhizome remains on the soil surface when replanted so that it can bake in the sun – essential for good flowers next year.
Summer is going by all too quickly so make sure you take time to enjoy the fullness of your garden.
If you are looking to improve your skills in the garden, allotment, or just to be more active and to meet new people, then there are number of gardening courses that may be of interest. At Merrist Wood, the Gardening for Wellbeing course runs year-long every Friday, 9.30am-12.30pm, with flexible enrolment dates. For skills in the allotment, the Your Allotment Journey: Autumn course starts on the 9th September for six weeks (£275) and is a practical course is designed to guide you through the growing seasons. Also in September, Dean Peckett is running a 3-day gardening course at Shamley Green Wood Estate, 7th - 9th September (£375). The course includes 3 days of tuition (10am – 3.30pm each day), 2-course lunch and drinks, and includes practical skills, demonstrations, and horticultural tips and advice. Please contact Dean at info@djpgardenadvisory.co.uk for more information.
The new allotment site at North Moors on the Slyfield estate (GU1 1AE) seems to have vacant plots – a rare event usually, when it comes to allotments. If you would like more information, contact Guildford Borough Council, who manages these allotments, at northmoors@guildford.gov.uk
Few plant genera can claim quite the evolutionary and horticultural success of the Salvia. The name derives from the Latin salvare, meaning “to heal”, reflecting the long history of common sage (Salvia officinalis) as both a medicinal herb and a culinary favourite. With well over 900 species, it is the largest genus in the mint family, Lamiaceae, and its diversity is the product of several independent bursts of evolutionary diversification centred in three geographical area: Central and South America, Central Asia, and the Mediterranean basin.
The floral feature that unites the genus is the "staminal lever." In most salvias, the two stamens (male reproductive parts) have evolved into a hinged, see-saw mechanism, so that when a pollinator pushes into the flower for nectar, the lever swings down and dabs pollen precisely onto the pollinator’s back or head. This elegant piece of floral engineering is thought to be a major reason the genus has diversified so explosively, particularly in the Americas, where many Salvia species co-evolved alongside hummingbirds, whose long bills and hovering flight suit the lever perfectly.
That deep diversity translates into a genus with something for every kind of garden – even ones with a hosepipe ban and no rain! At one end sit the reliably hardy herbaceous perennials such as Salvia nemorosa, S. verticillata, and S. x sylvestris – stalwarts of the summer border with their upright spikes or whorls of violet-blue. Then we have the generally hardy, woody shrubs such as S. greggii and S. microphylla and their many hybrids, such as Salvia “Hot Lips” that will flower almost continuously from June to the first hard frosts. On the more tender end of the scale are the often-sterile hybrids of S. guaranitica and S. gesneriiflora such as the magnificant purple Salvia ‘Amistad’ or the blue Salvia ‘Animo’ and then the completely tender tubular flowered hybrids such as the ‘Wish’ series – ‘Ember’s Wish’, ‘Wendy’s Wish’, 'Love and Wishes', and other recent introductions.
Salvias developed an unjust reputation as a boring bedding plant in the 1990’s (think, carpet bedding of red Salvia splendens, blue Lobelia erinus, and white Alyssum - Lobularia maritima) but have thankfully had a wonderful resurgence over the past decade or so. They flower for months on end, shrug off drought once established, and are irresistible to bees and, increasingly, in Surrey, Hummingbird Hawk-Moths.
Success with salvias comes down to two things: drainage and sunshine. Most salvias will survive more frost and cold weather than you would think, provided the roots stay dry. Wet British winters are the real killers here. Dig in plenty of grit or coarse compost when planting, especially on clay-soils, or grow them in raised beds and pots. Take a few cuttings in late summer as insurance against a hard winter and mulch the crowns with grit or a dry covering of bracken or straw.
Resist the urge to cut shrubby salvias back in autumn as the previous year’s growth will give additional protection. Once growth restarts in April, the old stems can be cut back hard. Herbaceous types such as S. nemorosa respond well to a hard cut-back immediately after their first flush of flowers, which reliably brings on a second wave of flowers to last into autumn. Slugs can be a problem on soft spring growth, and powdery mildew where air circulation is poor. Otherwise, they are very unfussy and easy to grow plants.
It’s nearly that time of year when we start to look through the many beautiful photographs we receive every month to try and find a suitable set for the Worplesdon Garden Club Calendar. The process of selection is never an easy one, and some seasons are better represented than others, but if you have any additional photographs you would like considered for the calendar, please send them to Tim via the Club email address, info@worplesdongardenclub.co.uk
I’m so delighted. After 3 years hard work, I have been awarded a first-class degree in Salad Preparation.
I now have lettuce after my name…
Tim Bonnert, August 2026