Our speaker at our May meeting, Julie Verity, gave us more insight into this serendipitous meeting on 24th June 1990 when Beth Chatto and Christopher Lloyd (of Great Dixter) visited Derek Jarman’s Dungeness garden, Prospect Cottage, and saw first-hand how Jarman had transformed the harsh environment into a now celebrated, unconventional "gravel garden" in the shingle of the beach using hardy native plants and striking sculptural driftwood. By focusing on drought-tolerant species that thrive in poor soil, including California poppies, curry plant, Santolina, sea campion, valerian, and Scotch thistle, Jarman was able to create a vibrant and flourishing garden in an arid landscape.

Initiated in 1991, Chatto used her expertise of plant habitats and the inspiration from Jarman to turn a dry, neglected car park into a lush landscape without using irrigation, serving as an experiment to prove drought-tolerant plants could be beautiful.  The garden uses a deep gravel mulch to retain moisture, focusing on structural Mediterranean and drought-resistant shrubs, such as Stipa gigantea, Euphorbia, lavender, Santolina, Eryngium, Cistus, Bergenia, and Phlomis.

With us just having had record-breaking daytime and nighttime temperatures for May, and a progressive warming of local and global temperatures overall, it is perhaps worth us all adopting more of these techniques for growing beautiful gardens without the need for additional irrigation.  Dry gardens are usually much less work than traditional gardens, requiring less weeding, mowing, and maintenance, whilst still supporting a vast array of wildlife and insects.  They mimic natural, low-nutrient habitats, allowing drought-tolerant, deep-rooted species to thrive.

If you have done a temporary No Mow May to encourage more wildflowers and wildlife into your garden, it’s important to transition back to mowing gradually and make the new first cut with mower blades on their highest setting.  If the grass is very long, it is best to strim and rake up the cuttings first and then use the lawnmower on the highest setting a week later.

As more wildflowers and grass flowers encourage more insects and invertebrates, which in turn encourages more reptiles, amphibians, and small mammals, always cut the grass from a path or walked area outwards so wildlife has both the time and a route to escape.  Alternatively, consider having areas that remain uncut or are only cut twice a year.  These year-round ‘No Mow Corridors’, like the wide field margins and hedgerows on agricultural land, can have a profound impact on the numbers of beneficial insects and the species diversity within your garden.

June is the perfect time to plant courgettes and squash outside in well manured or compost-enriched soil.  Always water well when planting and continue to water for the first few weeks until their roots can grow out from the root ball.  It is a good idea to ‘plant’ an empty flower pot next to the root ball of the new plant and then use this to water the plants.  This allows water to get deep into the soil and prevents wetting the leaves and stems of the plants that can cause rot.

Tall annuals and herbaceous perennials may need staking, tying, or a plant support to prevent wind or rain damage.  It is better to add the plant supports while the plants are still relatively small and can naturally grow around the support, than wait until they really need support and then risk damaging the foliage or flowers.

Early flowering shrubs in RHS Pruning Group 2 such as Philadelphus, Deutzia and Weigela should be pruned immediately after flowering.  These deciduous shrubs flower on stems produced in the previous year, so it is important to prune to encourage new growth but to also allow time for the new growth to harden and bear flowers next year.  Aim to cut up to 20 percent of stems back to near the base.  Tie in new growth on climbing and rambling roses to near horizontal as possible to promote the formation of flowering side-shoots.

Regular deadheading of annuals and herbaceous perennials is usually essential to prolong the flowering season.  The ever-popular Geranium ‘Rozanne’ is generally sterile and will not set seed and therefore will continue to flower all summer long.  For other hardy geraniums, the initial flush of flowers will tend to fade and it’s almost impossible to dead-head the individual flowers.  Instead, once flowering has faded, cut all the leaves and spent flowers off the plant to near ground level.  Feed and water very well, and you will be rewarded with a second flush of leaves and new flowers.

Plant out sweetcorn in blocks rather than rows to help with wind pollination of the cobs and continue to succession sow salad crops of lettuce, carrots, beetroot, and radishes, as well as a second sowing of peas and mangetout.  The formation of flowers on First Early potatoes are usually a sign that the first, most delicious new potatoes are waiting to be harvested, but it’s worth digging the plants up carefully to harvest the potatoes and then replanting the parent plant deep in the soil, as you will be able to get a second harvest from them later in the season.

Most tomato plants are the ‘indeterminate’ or cordon type which produce trusses of flowers and fruit on branches off the main stem and continue to grow from the leading shoot which will need to be tied to a cane or wound around a suspended string.  The side-shoots at the base of each leaf should be removed to encourage growth of the main stem.  However, do not pinch-out the side-shoots of bush, or ‘determinate’ ‘Tumbling Tom’ type tomatoes which require the side shoots to grow into new fruiting stems.  All tomatoes and cucumbers should be watered regularly to prevent drying out and once established, should be fed with a high potassium fertiliser weekly.

Whatever the weather through June, remember to make the most of the long evenings and enjoy your garden.  If something isn’t right with the look or layout of the garden, or if you have a plant that is struggling, remember to make a careful note and ideally take a few photographs.  Now is not the time to be moving plants or making large changes, but I guarantee you will have forgotten what it looks like now by the time late autumn or next spring comes around and you do want to change things!

Please remember, even if you’re not participating in the Show itself, the evening provides a lovely opportunity to meet with other Club members, to have a chat over a quiz or a puzzle, and to enjoy a few nibbles and some drinks.  However, we have again tried hard to create show classes that have general appeal and everyone can find something to enter – even if it’s just the ‘Have a Go’ class!

The categories for the photography classes at the Show are ‘Macro Magic!’ (botanical close-up photography), ‘Early Bird / Night Owl’ (a photograph taken early morning or late evening), and ‘The English Rose’.  The subjects of these photographs certainly do not have to originate from your own garden so keep your eyes peeled while you’re out and about and snap that perfect picture – roses do seem to be particularly good this year. 

More information on the Show and some Top-Tips for preparing entries are already available on the Club website but will also be included in the August newsletter.

They thrive in acidic, moisture-retentive but well-drained soil, enriched with organic matter and kept consistently cool at the roots.  If soil conditions are alkaline, they are best grown in raised beds or large containers using ericaceous compost, although some modern cultivars such as ‘Cunningham’s White’ or varieties grafted onto a Cunningham’s White rootstock have a better tolerance than most.

They prefer dappled shade or morning sun rather than hot afternoon exposure, and they need shelter from drying winds.  A generous mulch of leaf mould, composted bark, or pine needles helps conserve moisture around their shallow roots and gradually improves the soil, but the mulch should not touch the stem.  Regular watering is important in dry spells, especially for newly planted shrubs, as stress at establishment often leads to poor growth and fewer flowers.  Additional water may also be needed during July and August when the buds for next Spring’s flowers are forming. 

Pruning is usually light and straightforward.  Most rhododendrons need little more than the removal of dead, damaged, or congested branches, although an overgrown plant can usually be cut back hard if needed.  Any pruning is best done immediately after flowering so as not to remove the newly forming flower buds.  Azaleas should also be tidied immediately after flowering to encourage a neat

shape.  If possible, deadhead spent flowers to maximise growth and future flowering, and apply an occasional feed, appropriate for ericaceous (acid-loving) plants. 

Their blend of botanical variety, garden value, and rich history has ensured that rhododendrons and azaleas remain favourites with both collectors and ordinary gardeners alike.

A selection of beautiful rhododendron and azalea photographs are included on the May Photographs page of the website.